A novel method for generating continuously surfable waves

This paper presents the background and Initial investigation of a novel method for generating continuously surtable waves utilizing a moving pressure sou rce. The idea is to produce continuous breaking waves using a pressure source that is rotated within an ann ular wave pool. The inner ring of the annulus has a sloping bathymetry to induce wave breaking. The underlying aim of the project is to understand the wave mechanics, to allow the creation of repeatable continuous "steady-state" waves.

The immediate benefits of this scientific investigation will be realized by engineering the results into a surfing wave pool for recreational health use. The longer-term benefits will be developed through fundamental investigations of breaking waves.

Preliminary experiments into crealing a continuous steady-state wave were conducted in a towing tank using a series of pressure sources. The results have then been used to validate an initial numerical study. In addition, qualitative, full-scale experiments were carried out using a fishing vessel in a river estuary. This paper reports on the research conducted to date and plans for future work, including conducting experiments utilizing a 10-metre-diameter scale model.